One of the most desirable beauty trends of late is the full, fluffy brow. And if you aren’t working with a ton of brow hair, perhaps you’ve wondered how everyone is getting this look. Our eyebrows have gone through a lot over the years, chasing trends to make them fuller, and getting way too comfortable with our tweezers to pluck them down to nearly nothing (hello ’90s makeup trends). No matter where you stand on this issue or how your brows have fared over time, we have great news for you: it’s easy to create the appearance of full brows no matter what your starting point is.
To help you master the look of filled-in and fluffy eyebrows, we turned to celebrity and editorial makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes for her expert tips on how to create the perfect-looking eyebrows. Ahead, we’ve rounded up all the key steps Hughes gave us into one eyebrow tutorial that anyone can re-create at home. Spoiler alert: People will be complimenting your eyebrows all the time from here on out.
Secure Your Hair With Lash Glue
For the first step in creating fuller brows, Hughes suggests starting by using a tiny amount of latex-free eyelash glue on the eyebrows. Apply the glue fully throughout the brows and then press on the hairs to help them stick upward and remain that way. The latex-free glue will help your brow hairs remain secure, which is really important from the start. If you don’t have any glue on hand, you can use an eyebrow gel instead to get the same kind of look and feel. Apply a few coats of the gel to make sure each hair gets coated properly.
After the glue has been placed you can brush hair up with a spoolie or other tool to get the hairs to stand up as straight as possible. This helps to create the shape for your brows and gives you a great guide as to where your natural hair-growth pattern is if your eyebrows tend to have little hair or are quite thin. Lightly brush through the eyebrows until the hairs feel secure and the glue has dried, ensuring there isn’t any excess residue to clean up after. When brows are fully dry you’re ready to move on to the next step.
Add an Extra Flick
Some of us have brow hairs and some of us don’t, which is why this tutorial is so great for anyone who wants to have the look of full brows but might have not been born with them, or over-plucked them through the years. Hughes recommends using an eyebrow pen that helps to create lines that mimic the look of natural brow hair. She recommends Glossier’s Brow Flick Pen, $18, (she’s using shade brown here) to fill in any noticeable gaps with the quick flick of the pen. Light strokes in an upward motion to the pattern of where your natural hair would grow quickly helps to create your brow shape. This step is key when wanting to have the look of filled and fluffy eyebrows since you have control over each stroke and the precision of the tip makes it easy.
If you’re unsure about creating these hairs, you can start very light with the pen and then go back over your strokes again once you’ve gained some confidence. Practicing this every day will quickly turn you into an eyebrow master in no time.
Not sure which color to choose? Look at the roots of your natural hair and choose a shade that is slightly lighter than that for your brows. Since hair comes in all different shades, you want to get as close to the color as you can but don’t feel pressure to match it exactly. Mimicking the color of your natural hair to the best of your ability will help your brows not look too obvious. If you have darker hair tones, you can go slightly lighter with brows and the same applies to if you have very light hair, you can experiment with one to two shades darker that compliments your hair correctly. You will know what works and what doesn’t, and it might take a few tries to get the right color.
The Tail is Key
You might be intimidated by this step, but there’s no reason to be. The tail of the brow is key when it comes to keeping eyebrows looking complete, Hughes says that “The trick is to angle your wrist ever so slightly so that you can effectively draw on the tail of the brow ensuring it looks believable.”
If you aren’t sure where to begin, that’s ok! Focus on making your movement shorter and lighter during this step so you can continue to add color as you go. Think of it as tracing the tail out so you have a nice guide when you’re ready to commit. Once you’ve drawn the tail of the brow on, you will see the entire eyebrow shape come together.
Conceal and Highlight
For the finishing touch and to enhance the shape of your brows, Hughes touts that applying a touch of concealer around the brows with a smaller detailed makeup brush will make a noticeable difference. The precision of the brush will allow you to really work with the shape of the brows, ensuring they stay the way you want them to.
Lightly tap the brush into your favorite concealer and apply it all around the brows, not forgetting the top portion and underneath the browbone. The great thing about this tip is that it works two ways: You can conceal any mistake you’ve made or something specific you need to cover, and it also highlights your brows to make them stand out more and gives the illusion that they are more lifted.